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      Surfcaster's 2016 Reboot!   09/21/2016

      Howdy, folks. I know this is way overdue, and the damage is probably already done, but after weeks of working with the database I've finally wiped out all of the spam posts and topics. This was no easy task, considering there were three-quarters of a million bogus posts and nearly three hundred thousand bogus topics. Once a hacker/spammer network finds a vulnerability, they send out automated programs that basically destroy a database like this. Over the past couple weeks I've migrated all of the good data into a more current, secure platform with the hopes that we can somehow rebuild. New member registration is tightened way up, and a third-party spam monitoring service is in place. I've also invested in an awesome new gallery extension,  allowing members to create, manage, and share image galleries. Please give it a try, and let me know if there are any issues. I'm still testing and working out the bugs. Surfcaster's forums were once an amazing resource for everyone to enjoy, and we're hoping it can once again build back up. The main site (non-forums) is pretty banged up, but once the forums are complete my next task is to re-invent that as well. Spread the word. Hope to see a lot of you back! Cheers, Andrew
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rwolson

Tarpon 160i

21 posts in this topic

I went to NJ and picked up my new yellow Tarpon 160i. Great looking boat and ligt. I'm used to picking up heavier boats. :D

Drilled holes for Ram mounts today, glued in foam block for transducer, etc. Later this week she goes on her maiden voyage.

Now I need to sell my Fisherman

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I went to NJ and picked up my new yellow Tarpon 160i.

Mango is the color

Congrats on the new yak. Which color is it? :D Have fun on your maiden voyage & let us know how you like it.

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Hey Rich,

Nice boat. I almost got the T160 last fall, but felt the T140 was better fit for me. What did you use for foam/glue on the transducer? Currently mine is mounted with duct tape and I'm looking for a better mounting solution.

Bill

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Bill,

The guys at KFS provided me with a piece of white packing foam about 4 X 2 X 3/4 if memory serves me. The transducer fits in a tapered cutout which provides a snug fit for the transducer. The foam block is glued to the hull using Lexel, an adhesive used by the kayak industry for sealing bulkheads, etc. You can locate Lexle in a tube for around $5 at a variety of hardware stores. I know O"Connors in Billerica caries it. Nope, not a Home Depot.

ONce the glue dries add some vaseline then push in the transducer. The reason they went with this method, if you glue the transducer in with Goop you can get some big air bubbles in the Goop and pick up false readings. I need to test the setup once the Lexel cures.

Any questions just let me know,

Rich

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Rich,

Thanks for the info. Although because of the size/weight of my transducer, I think I would have to rig up some type of strap to hold it into place when transporting.

Bill

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Rich I hope you are able to go out more then twice this year. :D

You have a lot of gear and knowledge for someone who gets out a couple of times a year for 3 years now. :o

I hope that you can get out more often.

Bill,

Find out what the manufacturer recommends for applying your puck to the kayak. Some recommend silocone, goop and others epoxy. Garmin recommends epoxy. The Garmin puck I have is one of the biggest around. It is dual freq. It measures 3" wide x 6" long. It is mounted on my Extreme wich has a 1/2" foam layer that had to be scraped away to get a reading. The big ducer sits in a resovoir of epoxy and has not moved. I have removed it once by applying a screwdriver underneath and popping it up. No adhevsive that I know of will permanently attach an item to a poly kayak unless it is welded in. Even then there is always a breaking point.

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Jeff,

Hoping to get out a lot more this year, but never know with work. Very long story which causes my BP to rise.

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Jeff,

I appreciate your advice, but I'm still a little apprehensive about using epoxy on the transducer and feel more comfortable with the less permanent approach. I also have a dual frequency that handles speed as well and at the cost of replacement I feel I need to err on the caucus side. When I purchased my FF at West Marine, I explained what my intent was and got the “Deer in the headlight look” from the sales person, so I figured that this is still a little new for people in the boating industry to comprehend. Who knows if this sport really takes off, we might be seeing Kayak manufacturers providing mounting brackets and wiring harnesses in the future.

Thanks,

Bill

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Rich...its time to throw in the towel and get out of there. LOL!

I love the shirts on this page...."No working during fishing hours!"

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Bill,

My $0.02: I have been amazed at how easily all adhesives detached from the inside of my Malibu ProExplorer (the shorter version of Jeff's Extreme). I tried all kinds of things -- Goop, 3M 5200 Adhesive Sealant, Silicone Adhesive, 2-part slow-cure epoxy, fast-cure epoxy, etc.

Nothing worked well enough to make me happy. All eventually loosened up enough to allow at least a little air under the transducer, which ruins your sonar picture. As for the epoxy, I didn't even have to work very hard to get that out of the yak when I wanted to pull it out -- once it had started to loosen, I just pulled and wiggled the transducer a bit, and the whole works came off the inside of the hull cleanly -- of course, I still had a big epoxy pancake stuck to my transducer, so I did need to spend a little time with a scraper and screwdriver cleaning that up, but it did all come off the transducer with no harm done.

I eventually gave up and rigged up a transom mount, and am much happier now -- the FF always works perfectly, and the picture is much sharper than shooting through the hull, even when the adhesive was first set and there was no air under the puck. The transom mounting bracket I made last year is a bit unwieldy, so I will probably rig up something a bit more elegant this year, but nevertheless, 'ducers are made to go in the water, and that's where I intend to keep mine from now on.

In hindsight, I believe what happens (especially with the ProExplorer, which is made of fairly thin polyethylene and has no foam inside) is that the combination of thermal expansion/contraction cycles as the yak sits out in the hot sun during the day, then either cools of by going into the water or sitting overnight, coupled with the way the hull flexes when you slide the yak up onto the roof rack, eventually breaks the bond between the adhesives and the inside of the hull.

I can't say for sure, as I have not yet found the spare coin to put a FF in my other kayak, a Tarpon 120, but it seems to me the T120 hull flexes far less than the ProExplorer when loading and unloading -- seems to be a thicker and/or stiffer grade of polyethylene -- so inside the hull mounting may work better on the T120 than it did on the PE.

Cheers,

--EH

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Oh, yeah. One other thing:

Some guys have found success in mounting inside the hull by using a PVC cup (just a 3-4" long section of 4-6" diameter PVC pipe) adhered to the inside of the hull with a bead of Goop or other flexible adhesive, such that the adhesive only runs along the "face" of the PVC pipe where it meets the hull, yet the inside hull area enclosed by the PVC cup has no adhesive (just bare polyethylene hull). You then fill this cup about 1/3 to 1/2 way with Vaseline and set the transducer in the vaseline -- it will shoot through the vaseline and hull fairly well, and being semi-liquid, the vaseline won't pull up from the hull like a more rigidly-set adhesive can.

To make this usable in practice, you will need to put a PVC pipe cap over the top of the cup to prevent the vaseline and transducer from spilling out of the cup when the yak is inverted -- you will need to drill a hole in the top of the cap so you can run the transducer wire through it, then rig up a rubber or cork stopper to fit around the cord and plug the hole. You can do this by drilling straight through the middle axis of the rubber stopper to make a path for the wire, then slitting the stopper longitudinally along one side so you can wrap it around the wire (trust me, this is easier said than done; watch your fingers when drilling the hole in the stopper).

IMHO, I still think you will get a better sonar picture by rigging up a bracket and placing the 'ducer in the water.

YMMV. Good luck.

Cheers,

--EH

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You have to read what you buy as well. Some transducers are not made too shoot thru the hull of a boat or kayak.

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Wow, the information that you guys provide on this site is un-matched to any other. Thank you all for your tips.

Rich,

I apologize I didn’t mean to hijack your thread with my questions. If you’re ever in the Newburyport area give me a shout, I live about 10 minutes from Joppa flats and would love to hook up with somebody with more experience. I’m always willing to learn.

Bill

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Bill,

No problem. The forum's for an exchange of ideas and info so we all learn, contribute, etc. I learn a lot from the threads.

Eric, any photos of your rudder mount?

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I put mine in Goop last fall and it's still holding.I just roughed up the area a little with some sandpaper.So far ,So good! Lefty

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:D

I Used Goop on mine over two years and still holding with no problems. It took some doing to set it up. If done properly it should last. :fish:

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No pics at present, Rich. I'll take some "before and after" pics when I make the new mounting bracket and post them.

--EH

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I did the pvc cup method in my pungo. Each trip the cup gets filled with water and the cap gets screwed on. I detach it for cartopping and it goes on my ice sled in the winter. It is very easy to do and shoots through the hull no problem. I also get pretty accurate water temps.

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